Lunigiana Travel Guide

A journey through Lunigiana The valley of the river Magra, heart of the historic region called Lunigiana, appears - to the traveller who descends from the Cisa - as a big amphitheatre that in spring and summer is richly ornamented in green whilst in autumn it adorns itself with the many colours of its immense woods. In winter the candid marble tops of the Apuane mountains mix themeselves with the white snow covered Appennines. In a few square kilometres mother nature presents herself in an unexpected and surprising variety of landscapes, high prairies with blackcurrant moors and the pastures where the esteemed Zeri sheep lives; the hills with the olive-groves, the vineyards and a trail of villages dominated by the strict outlines of a hundred and more castles: the bottom of the Magra valley that - as Mario Tobino wrote - winds itself like a silver eel, with waters rich in fish and where it is still possible to bathe. This is an ancient land, and covered by the great ancient routes: Sigerico passed this way in 994, travelling along the Francigena, a road that in the river Magra valley coincided with the road for Saint James of Compostela and from which also started off the road of the Volto Santo that lead to Lucca. Here, amongst the harshness of the mountains, the Romans had to put up a hard fight before defeating the Ligure-apuane people that had erected their stone idols (warriors, and large bossomed women today on show in the Pontremoli museum) to guard the roads and the pastures. Here during Second World War, the ancient roads and woods saw the horrors of the war, the heroic acts of the partisans, the generous hospitality of country people, towards those escaping from the city.
Hospitality in Lunigiana is sacred: Dante experienced it, hosted by the Malaspina family, a famous feudal family, who left their sign in numerous small feudal properties that surrounded the towns of Pontremoli and Fivizzano.
A generous land with its products, its pleasant wines, were famous already in the past for its delicate aromas which derived from a vast variety of vines.
The chestnut woods produce a very delicious flour, ground in water mills, while the underbrush gives us mushrooms, blackcurrants and raspberries.
The olive tree that here grows in very difficult conditions produces an oil that was already appreciated by Francesco Petrarca, and which can be found in the best local shops. In the following pages you will find examples of itineraries in Lunigiana: outlines for a trip that requires the will to be guided by the natural sceneries and historical landscape, by the encounters with the people of Lunigiana, but above all the pleasures of the cusine of this land.
Of one thing I am certain: wherever you will stop, when you will ask for a local traditional dish you will realise that the ancient saying is always true according to which the soul of a race of people can be discovered by discovering the tastes, aroms and colours of its cuisine.
Pontremoli: a casket full of Treasures
The city's fortune was made by its networks of roads: apart from the Via Francigena, it was connected to the road for Genoa, passing through Zeri; the road for Borgallo which led to Borgotaro and on into the Piacenza area; the road for Cirone which led to Parma by way of Langhirano. So Pontremoli soon became a military garrison and a centre of trade with its flourishing craft workshops. Surrounded by defensive walls and protected by three mighty fortresses and six watchtowers, it managed to liberate itself of Este dominion to become a free municipality, allied to the Lombard League and fierce opponent of Barbarossa's paasage in 1167.
It was because of furious internal strife that it fell in the 14th century when Castruccio Castracani, in 1322, divided the great marketplace in two with his Cacciaguerra Fortress in order to quell the Guelf and Ghibelline factions.
After that, Pontremoli was contested between nobles and sovereigns who wished to control the roads: thus the various Fieschi, Castruccio, Della Scala, Sforza, Kings of France and Spain all contended it until Florence, and finally in the 19th century the Dukes of Parma established their rule. Today, Pontremoli is a precious casket of artistic and monumental treasures: to cross its bridges or walk its cobbled streets is like leafing through an art hisotry book. In the Piagnaro stronghold, a great medieval castle, the stelae statues, carved in sandstone, tell of the birth of Megalithic art: the warriors and powerful women, stylistically portrayed in a fashion that enchanted Henry Moore, still hold the secret of their function, strewn, as they were, along the roads of Lunigiana. Below the medieval town centre, the squares, divided by Cacciaguerra's tower, still seem to recall the quarrelling parties: the Piazza del Duomo, with the Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace, is Guelf; the lower Piazza della Repubblica, with the Town Hall, Tribunal and the large Pavesi and Bocconi Palaces, is Ghibelline.
The Cathedral, built to the design of Alessandra Capra (1636-1687), as an exvoto in gratitude for having been spared the plague, conserves frescoes by Francesco Natali (18th century) and important canvases by Bottano, Subleyras and Tempesti. There is a precious image of the Madonna del Popolo, dressed in the fashion of the Madonna of Loreto, which hides a lovely 14th century sculpture of the Madonna and Child Enthroned. The buildings, constructed for the nobility of Pontremoli, testify to their trade-based wealth: the facades are richly decorated with portals and windows, they have courtyards with columns and statues and imposing stairways. Inside, there are salons and rooms, frescoed during two centuries of fine Baroque painting in Pontremoli, which saw masters such as Contestabili, Galeotti and the Natali at work. The Church of St. Francis has a fine 18th century portal by Natali and conserves a beautiful, 15th century marble bas-relief of the Virgin and Child by Agostino di Duccio. Next to the 18th century theatre, the Teatro della Rosa, and the Castelnuovo Fortress, is the Church of our Lady, built to the plans of G.B. Natali, a masterpiece of Baroque architecture and painting.
The 15th century Augustinian Monastery, in the Annunziata District, is surprisingly rich in works of art, proof of its success as a centre for pilgrimage, trade-fairs and markets. The Church and two cloisters illustrate the skill of the Comacine Masters, unsurpassed masters of working stone; inside the Church, there is a 16th century octagonal tempietto containing a painted maestà, in front of which the Madonna appeared to a shepherdess: the episode which inspired the construction of the Sanctuary. The tempietto is, itself, very fine, decorated, as it is, with several statues. Also of great interest are a 15th century polyptych, the canvases of Cambiaso (1527-1589) and Garolano (1481-1559) and the monumental Sacristy, frescoed by Natali and with intaglioed furniture carved by Frate Battaglia in 1676.

Fivizzano: The Ancient Captaincy of Florence
It lies at an extremely important road junction and has always flourished as a cantre of trade and of top quality craftwork. It was the crossroads of trade for the Po Valley, the Western Riviera and the port of Leghorn: olive oil, cereals, vegetables, salt, wine and spices all passed through its market. From here, too, the mineral resources of the area were diffused: gypsum from Sassalbo, kaolin for the factory of the Marquis Ginori of Doccia, white marble from Equi, stone from the Pognana quarry, not forgetting coal and the precious wood from its forests. At Fivizzano, there were iron-factories, papermills, foundries, dye-works, printing works and tanneries; it was the residence of famous jurists, doctors, notaries and men of letters. One of the best accounts of Fivizzano was that of Prospero Fantuzzi, a singular 19th century traveller who stopped here, in 1829, on his way to the sea: "We arrived inside the very elegant Fivizzano. To anyoine into whose hands this manuscript might one day fall, should they happen on this page, be so good at this point to imagine our state of mind and share with us our content and the delight that filled our imaginations upon alighting at Fivizzano. Having crossed so many mountains, cliffs, precipices, old towns and villages more fit for wolves than men, we came across the charming view of the town...where everything was new, gracious and rich. We went through the fine gateway into the heart of the town, surrounded by strong walls...and here we were in districts where, behind us, stood fine examples of architecture, decorated in sandstone and marble and, at the start of our tour, the majestic little palace of the Counts Fantoni, with its garden. We came to the elegant square, surrounded by tall three-storey buildings, with a fountain in the middle...in the midst of the basin rises a spire of marble and rough stones...and four large well-carved dolphins spurt water from their mouths and to these smaller basins comes a continual stream of women to draw water, green-grocers to wash their vegetables, children to play and men to drink...". The large Medicean square, with the fountain donated by Cosimo III in 1682, is still today the centre of life in Fivizzano, with the provostal Church, restored after the damage caused by the earthquake of 1920, the gracious buildings, the seat of the 16th century Accademia degli Imperfetti, which recalls the intense cultural life of Fivizzano. The Fantoni Palace is being restored by an illustrious contemporary citizen of Fivizzano: the doctor and writer Loris Jacopo Bonomi. It will eventually house the Museum of Printing to recall that Fivizzano was one of the capitals of this art. Here it was that Jacopo di Fivizzano opened one of the first printing works in Italy, here the first typewriter was invented and used, here the Arcadian poet Labindo lived and worked and lies buried in an elegant small temple, erected near the Town Hall. The Augustinian complex is well worth a visit with its library, collection of fine works of art from churches in Fivizzano, the hostels and, on the outside, the bronze monument realling a native of Fivizzano, the mother of Niccolò V, the great Pope who founded the Vatican Library. A Pope who never forgot his origins and who gave Fivizzano the precious tapestry, given to him, in turn, by Siena in 1450 on the Sanctification of St. Bernardino, and which Fivizzano sold to the Bargello Museum in Florence in 1937.
Aulla: The Propulsive Centre of Lunigiana A document dating from the 9th century records that, on the 27th of May of the year 884, Adalbert, Marquis of Tuscany, founded a monastery dedicated to the Holy Virgin in the same place where he had already founded a castle, hospice and a church. At that time, Aulla was a small city, built to defend the bridges and roads leading into the region of Lucca, Liguria and to the Cisa Pass: these were the years of the fame and success of the Via Francigena as a route for trade and pilgrimage and Adalbert of Tuscany exerted his authority over the movement of both goods and people. He donated lands and properties to the Abbey such that it became a rich and powerful collector of tolls and levies on presses and mills. The ancient walls, capitals and medieval tombs of the old Abbey, which hosted Archbishop Sigericus in 994, have now been brought back to light. After terrible bombardments in the Second World War (which destroyed 90 per cent of housing), little remains in the heart of the old city: Palazzo Centurione, built over the 15th century portal, the 19th century fountain in Piazza Cavour, part of the ancient walls of the customs district and a small tower overlooking the River Aulella. So, apart from the Abbey, Aulla's most famous monument is the austere and imposing Brunella Fortress, the most powerful war machine to have been built in the Lunigiana area after the invention of artillery. Abandoned at the beginning of the 19th century, it was purchased by the English Consul in Genoa who began to restore it in 1875. At the start of the 20th century, it became the property of Lina Waterfield, an English writer and journalist, who transformed it into a romantic residence with park and hanging gardens. Writers, politicians and literary figures stayed there, amongst whom Lawrence, Salvemini, Berenson and Russell. At present, the restoration of the Fortress exterior and the gunpowder deposit has reached its final stages; the Lunigiana Museum of Natural History is housed there alongside an amusement park and pets' cemetery, something of a rarity in Italy. A vital trade centre, Aulla is still today an important nexus for traffic. Nearby, along the Cisa Road, the Sanctuary of the Madonna degli Angeli is heralded by a maestà (a Madonna Enthroned), covered by a cloud of pink satin rosettes, the ex voto of those who have entrusted their baby girls to the Madonna's care; the Sanctuary itself is situated a little higher up, next to a medieval bridge and a rock whereon is inscribed the story of a nobleman from Pontremoli who miraculously escaped from an attack by brigands.

The Art, the Churches, the Villas In Pontremoli, in the Basilica of SS. Annunziata (dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virtgin), there is a small marble temple by Jacopo Sansovino, a panel by Luca Cambiaso, a polyptych from the XVI century. In San Francesco there is a polychrome bas-relief of the Madonna and Child attributed to Agostino di Duccio (15th century). The facade of the Cathedral (1636-1687) is Neoclassical and is the work of Vincenzo Micheli, author of many public buildings in the 19th century. There are Lomabrdic and Caroligian sculpture in the Proto-Romanesque church of Codiponte, 1.5 km from Casola. In the Church of San Remigio at Fosdinovo, there is the marvellous marble tomb of Galeotto Malaspina (14th century). By common consent, "Art" is usually identified with Painting and Sculpture but, of course, it naturally extends into the field of Architecture. Quite apart from its many wonderful churches, the Province of Massa-Carrara (especially in Lunigiana), abounds in castles and strongholds, examples of military and civil engineering, where they were built for safe but spacious and confortable residence. 160 castles have been counted: some have been wonderfully restored but, as for others, only a few traces ramain of their past history, contended, as this land was, not only the Obertenghi and the Bishop-Counts of Luni, but also by the Este, the Pisan Ghibellines and the Malaspinas, and subsequently by the Visconti, the Lucchese, the Campofregoso of Genoa, the Sforza, the Medici, to then succumb to the vicissitudes of the Malaspina family, followed on by the Cybos. Land and castles were contended by the military leaders and captains of their respective epochs: from Federico Barbarossa and Castruccio Castracani to Giovanni dalle Bande Nere. And when we thnik of the grand residences built by such men, enlightened in varying degress but all fine connoisseurs of luxury and beauty, then we must think in terms of Art and of works which remain to narrate the Past at times gloomy, at others splendid. The elegant last country home of the penultimate Marquis Malaspina of Fosdinovo, at Caniparola, dates to the 18th century. Though Michel de Montaigne was forced, in the 16th century, to remark on the quantity of "not very beautiful old buildings" in Pontremoli, he would have been forced to change his mind later because the 17th century saw the creation of Palazzo Negri, decorated by Alessandro Gherardini and Giovanni Battista Natali and, facing this, of Palazzo Maracchi (with an alcove frescoed by Francesco natali) as well as the Parasacchi and Cavalli Palaces. The following century saw the erection of the Dosi's city residence by Giuseppe Antonio Natali whose highly talented family were awarded the title of Marquis in 1773. Then the sobre Palazzo Zambeccari (later Venturini) stands out on today's Via Garibaldi, with the Caimi and Curini-Galletti Palaces in Via Mazzini and the Damiani Palace in Via Cocchi. Niccolò Contestabili frescoed a room here with the Story of Niobe. Palazzo Ricci Armani was rebuilt in 1781. Palazzo Pavese (renovated and enlarged in 1730) has a long, 7 metre high gallery, running the length of the building which was frescoed by Giovanni Battista Natali. Most of the furniture and furnishings are original as are those of Palazzo Bocconi, now Zucchi Castellini. The Villa Dosi at Chiosi (dating to the end of the 17th century) is in an extraordinarily refined setting. At Coamno, we come across the Romanesque Parish Church of Crespino, first cited in 1143 in a papal Bull of Pope Eugenio III.

The Castles of Lunigiana Too many of these settlements, which can probably be dated back to a period in 884 (when a first castellum was erected by Adalbert, Marquis of Tuscany, at the confluence of the Rivers Magra and Aulella), are now little more than ruins. However, the intervention of public authorities and the determination of private citizens have, in many cases, succeeded in restoring to us some extremely important and highly picturesque complexes. Some are famous and are visited eaxch year by thousands of people: the most attractive, at Fosdinovo, still belongs to the Malaspina heirs (the Marquises Torrigiani) who built it between the 13th and 14th centuries. Surrounded by solid walls, imposing ramparts and a complicated network of walkways and corridors, the modern day visitor is transported back into a remote and fascinating period. The French Revolution unfortunately witnessed the destruction of the original frescoes which were replaced in the 19th century by the work of the Florentine artist Gaetano Bianchi. The castle of Verrucola near Fivizzano has belonged for many years now to the sculptor Pietro Cascella. It is the result of many superimposed layers of styles which range from 1100 to 1300. It was the centre of bloody conflict, including the seige of Castruccio Castracani who desecrated it in 1317. Spinetta Malaspina managed to retake it ten years later. Castiglione del Terziere (from Licciana on towards Panicale) was built between 1300 and 1500. The quadrilateral keep dates from the medieval period and a robust cylindrical pillar would appear to go back further, perhaps to some time between the 7th and the 8th centuries. Castruccio degli Antelminelli was one of its well known occupiers. Now owned by the poet Lori Jacopo Bononi, it has for many years been the site of important cultural events such as concerts of Renaissance music and historical and literary conferences. The Castle of Piagnaro is located in the Upper Val di Magra, at Pontremoli. It probably dates back to the Lomabrdic Period and was built to dominate the Via Francigena and, as such, was subject to siege, destruction and recostruction. In 1110, it was semi-destroyed by the Emperor Arrigo V; in 1167, it courageously resisted the assault of Federico Barbarossa, focing him to change his strategies and plans; Federico II destroyed it in 1252 and his son Enzo rebuilt it five years later. The keep dates to the 1200s but important changes took place in the 14th and 15th centuries. It now hosts the fascinating Museum of Stelae Statues. Here, there is a room destined for young couples intending to marry in Pontremoli and begin their honeymoon. Along the Brattello route, one encounters the 13th century Tower of Grondola, long contested by the Pontremolese who destroyed and rebuilt it several times over. Beyond the Caprio Valley, at Filattiera, is to be found the base of the Tower of St. George, next to the small eponymous church. This old fortification is believed to have originated as early as the late Roman period (5th century). The upper part of the tower and the adjacent walls are Byzantine. The Malaspina began the contruction of the walled town and castle in the second half of the 14th century and the latter was enlarged and transformed in the 16th century, into a wealthy residence, with spacious rooms and gardens. On the right bank of the River Magra, at Mulazzo, lie the ruins of Castellaro, with its important walls. The hexagonal old tower (known as "Dante's Tower"), 25 to 30 metres high, dominated the way to the Casoni Pass and the Valley up to the end of the 18th century. Groppoli: the tower and the castle of the town, restored in this past decade by Jacopo Bononi, were both probably constructed prior to the age of the Malaspina. Castevoli: the castle, which grew out of the enlargement of a small fortress, was transformed in the second half of the 16th century into a comfortbale home for Bianca Sicchi d'Aragona, the rich wife of Tommaso Malaspina who also oversaw the planning of the entire town. His son, Francesco, continued his work as have the painter Loris Nelson Ricci and his wife Erika, today, by turning it into their prestigious and fascinating home. A legend is tied to this castle concerning a revolt which occurred at the end of the 18th century against the practice of ius primae noctis. The story goes that a young man infiltrated the marquis' bed and knifed him to death to revenge an innumerable number of outrages. In effect, a revolt did occur but it should be attributed primarily to the heavy taxes imposed on the populace. Lusuolo: admired today for its magnificent views and in yester years for its strategic position, the castle has long been subject of interest. Demolished in 1449 by the Genoese, after a long drawn out siege, reconstructed the following century, sold to the Florentines and by them transformed in the 17th century into an artillery-equipped fortress. After a long period of restoration, visitors can now enjoy its large internal courtyard and well, its balconies overlooking the Magra with as splendid a view as ever there was. Villa di Tresana: a small but elegant castle, saved from oblivion by Amalia of Bavaria, a true-blooded princess who largely restored it, alongside Count Huberto Poletti Galimberti. To this couple goes the credit for having encouraged the renovation of the entire town, now an authentic oasis, inhabited mostly by foreigners, many originating from Belgium, who love the timeless sensation of living here. In the Bagnone Valley, it is hard to distinguish the Castle at Virgoletta from the almost homogeneous single mass it forms with those building adjacent to it. The square stronghold (12th-13th century) is a military one and was commissioned by the Corbellari family of small landowners; its development was probably necessary during the rule of Galeotto di Campofregoso, which began in 1449. The castle prospered under the Malaspina and was enriched with grandiose salons. The earthquake of 1920 damaged rooms and its overall stability which led to a series of rather unsatisfactory interventions. Restorations is underway at present. Filetto: the medieval fortress, with its corner towers, is still easily discerned in the town. In 1399, it suffered a terrible incursion by the troops of the Duchy of Milan. By 1568, it had been reconstructed and, a century on, the palace of the Marquis Ariberti arose. Malgrate: the 25 metre high tower dates to the 12th century. Next to this lies what remains of the palace, its walls equipped with a series of doubly-splayed arrow slits for bows and crossbows. It has changed hands many times: from the Malaspina to the Ariberti to the Marquis Freganeschi. Today it has been restored, partly with E.U. founds, and it is public property. Treschietto: built between the end of the 13th century and the beginning of the 14th century, with its central keep and cylindrical tower, it used to be the home of Giovanni Malaspina, called Beretta. Its original size can be surmised from the fact, documented in a letter to the Genoese Republic, that it was capable of housing up to 600 or 700 footsoldiers. Villafranca(Malnido): in a formidable strategic position, near to the crossing of the Magra, the castle was built by the Malaspina from 1100 onwards; the walls of the city are medieval. Other fortifications are visible from the opposite part of the town next to the Church dedicated to St. John. Bagnone: the cylindrical tower is 13th to 14th centuries. With the advent of the Noceti, the military aspects of the entire complex underwent many changes, in the mid-15th century, and it became more defensive than aggressive; it has since seen many renovations. Terrarossa, in the Taverone Valley was built by Fabrizio Malaspina, and, although the castle had the atmosphere of an aristocratic residence throughout the 16th-17th centuries, its solid corner struts are there to remind us that is also served defensive purposes. The Marquis, though shrewd, ran into financial difficulties and was unable to complete it. Now it has been restored to perfection. Monti: built from the 11th century onwards, and belonging to the Este Family, it was stormed in 1524 by Giovanni dalle Bande Nere who imprisoned the Marquis Spinetta Malaspina there. Later, in 1638, the inhabitants of the fief opted to join the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Built to classical canons, the castle was seriousle damaged by the earthquake of 1920. It still preserves parts of the original construction in the gateway, which defended the town below, and traces of the old drawbridge. It has a library and a salle d'armes with a huge stone fireplace. It is owned today by Marquis Nicolò Malaspina. Pontebosio: originally a castle, this is now more of a country villa. It is quadrangular, with four corner towers and an abundance of balconies and loggias. Licciana Nardi: the castle is today held to be the beautiful and elegant 16th century palace which is opposite the Town Hall; in the distant past, it was completed by Obizzo Malaspina who re-used the strctures of the pre-existing stronghold. Dating from the 15th century, it has elements, such as the octagonal watchtowers with slits for firearms, which date its completion to the 18th century. Its elegant salon is often used nowadays for cultural events. Bastia: dating from the 13th century, it suffered Genoese occupation on two successive occasions, in 1416 and 1449. Ludovico Ariosto, Governor of Garfagnana for the Duke of Ferrara, informed the latter in 1524 that the castle, held to be impregnable, had been taken by "Signor Giovanni" (Giovanni deì Medici, called Giovanni dalle Bande Nere). Giovanni Malaspina's wife, the Marchioness Anna, whose legendary beauty was sung by poets like Monti and Frugoni, lived in the mansion. Itis in very good condition and is now the residence of Lodovico Formentini. Comano: the cylindrical tower, crowned by sandstone corbels, dates way back. The old castle, traces of which are quite substantial, has been restored and will soon be open to the public. Aulla, considered the "main junction" of the area, hosts numerous settlements, apart from the eponymous castle in the town centre. Bibola: built over various periods but in some places prior to 1000, was contended by the Bishops of Luni and the Malaspina. In 1543, it was yielded to the Genoese Adamo Centurione. It is a simple structure with a quadrilateral tower. Caprigliola: the impressive cylindrical tower, probably dating from the 10th-11th centuries lies within two sets of city walls, the outer one having been later constructed by the Medici in the mid-16th century. With its surrounding structures it resembles a solemn ship as one looks up at it from below, especially when it is illuminated for the Festival of the Virgin, from the 8th to the 12th of September. After the Obertenghi came the Lucchese, then Castruccio Castracani and, finally, in 1404, the Florentines. Bigliolo: the earliest reference to this castle dates to 1181; now the bases of the watchtowers and other significant remains are all that is left. Here, in 1532, Giovanni dalle Bande Nere's cruel conquest saw resistance, massacres and atrocities. Olivola: arising in the 12th century, the quadrangular castle with large watchtowers became a Malaspina residence in 1275. One of the largest castles in Lunigiana, it came down to us almost intact until it was ravaged by the earthquake of 1920. Aulla: the Brunella Fortress is a mighty Renaissance bastion but it is not known exactly for whom it was built (amongst its probable founders the ubiquitous Giovanni de' Medici). The marvellous architectural features of its quadrangular structure and the ramparts which made it so vital up to the 18th century, have led some to surmise that Giuliano di Sangallo must have played a hand in its construction. If not Sangallo himself then certainly architects from his School were involved. Bought by the Waterfield family who restored it and lived there until 1960, it was later auctioned and became public property and is now the seat of the Natural History Museum. Podenzana: built shortly after 1000, the castle was strongly contended, up until the end of the following century, by the Malaspina and the Bishops of Luni: too long a story to tell here. Bought in 1954 by Giovanni Morandi, it has a solemn facade, its main entrance surmounted by a coat of arms, spacious rooms, a painted chapel and a salle d'armes. The Valley of Aulella and Rosario is particularly full of settlements. Gragnola: constructed in the 12th century, became an aristocratic home in the 17th century. It has a mighty central keep which more than justifies its name. Castel dell'Aquila ("The Eagle's Castle); it has become even more beautiful after recent restoration. The tower of Viano is isolated and majestic; Codiponte, first belonged to the Bianchi d'Erberia, subsequently to the Malaspina and, finally, to the Florentines. A legend has it that the wicked Marquis, having made ample use of his ius primae noctis, then had to bodies of the girls he raped flung down a deep well. A wicked person or with something to hide? Casola: has made a prestigious symbol of its tower. From the times of Lucchese domination in the 14th century, it formed part of a defensive system which availed itself of no less than three city walls, built in different periods. When, in the 18th century, it was no longer needed for military purposes, it was embellished and transformed into the bell tower for the Church of St. Felicity but this solution was precarious since it returned to its previous state after the earthquake of 1920.

Places to visit in Lunigiana: nature, culture, history Archaelogical museum of the Stelae Statues Located in the Piagnaro Castle in Pontremoli this Museum collects numerous authentic statues and various copies moulded on the original. The Stelae are humen figures carved in stone, both male and female, dating from the Neolithic Age (III Millennium BC) to the centuries immediately before the roman conquest (II century BC); they are tombstones or maybe objects of cult, homogeneous in aspect but nevertheless characterized by various differing elements (arms, amulets...). This very interesting and carefully organized collection is completed by rock engravings and documents about other findings of anthropomorphic stelae in Italy and in Europe. The scholars have ordered the statues in different periods on the basis of the evolution of the weapons (from daggers to javelins and axes) for the men, and of the details (bosoms, roundness of the figure) for the women.
Lunigiana Ethnographic Museum A very intense and profitable work of recovery, begun in the 70's, has made it possible to bring together a good number of objects from the daily life of peasants: instruments, clothes, domestic objects, that have been divided in ten sections and accompanied by explicative cards and images of the time, in order to illustrate in detail all the moments and activities of a peasant's life. the house then, with the kitchen (the room designed for cooking and eating) at its center, but also all the activities conducted behind or just outside the domestic walls: the working of chestnuts (the gathering, the drying process, the cleaning and the grinding), of hemp, the weaving. And again, the cycles of grapes and wine, the breeding of cattle, the making of cheese. The museum collects about 4000 pieces: some of them, without captions, may really seem enigmatic to our modern society who has developed in a rush and is now culturally very far. A well furnished carpenters shop, with original tools as well as other instruments used for the work in the fields, occupies some of the rooms. Particulary interesting is the part of the museum dedicated to religious beliefs and superstitions. All of this placed in a fascinating context: a building lapped by the Bagnone stream, on whose lower side still functioning mills and olive presses are harboured.
Museum of the Church of Sant'Antonio and San Jacopo da Fivizzano The provostal church of the city preserves two treasures. The first is the church itself, in the altars, in the splendid wooden choir stalls, in the works of art. But there is also another one, collected and on display in the rooms next to the high altar. Where the museum of the provostal church is situated. There is a nice exhibtiion of sacred art, which testifies the exceptional richness of the city and its families who competed with each other to make their church splendid.
Lunigiana Natural History Museum
Here the most significant natural habitats of the Lunigiana have been recreated: the mediterranean vegetation, the coppice, the chestnut groves, the cultivated soils in the plains, in the hills and in the mountains, the beech groves, the caves, the mountain prairies, the agricultural landscape, the lake and river ecosystems, the forests.
Printing Museum "Jacopo da Fivizzano" In its dedication itself is the reason for the existance of the Museum. It was created in this city because this is where Jacopo da Fivizzano worked and began to print in 1471, at the same time as others in Italy. It is the city that later had the prestigious printers the Bartoli family. Therefore Fivizzano, is the city of printing, and to honour this past, the brothers Loris, Jacopo and Eugenio Bononi, have converted into a museum what used to be the splendid residence of the Fantoni family. A museum with all sorts of printing machines, even that of the typewriter that was inverted here by Agostino Fantoni the first in the world.
Ancient mill of Arlia The old watermill, with three grinders and horizontal rotors, has been recovered and brought back to use by the Comunità Montana della Lunigiana; you can see the traditional grinding of chestnuts and cereals and visit an exposition about mills as well. In Lunigiana you can find other watermills and stone grinders perfectly functioning, for example in Filattiera and Signano di Fivizzano, from which you can buy excellent and genuine flour.
Caves and museum of Equi Terme In the scenario of this little village situated at the feet of the Pizzo d'Uccello we find the caves and the Buca (hole) of Equi, a vast karst complex, created by a millennial process of erosion by water that has shaped awesome tunnels, cavities, halls, stalactites and stalagmites. In front of the Buca a new museum has been created, which allows you to plunge in the remotest past of these territories and discover the history of the human presence in Equi and the way it affected nature. Its aim being essentially didactic, you won't find here showcases full of artifacts or countless explicative panels, but precise and scientificly accurated reconstructions of the life of man, the presence of bears, the environment.
Collection of religious objects and tools of the peasant society of Lusignana This important collection of objects and tools of the peasant society in the upper Val di Caprio is housed in the former stables of the presbytery. Dedicated to Mario Nadotti, it has been valued and made open to the public thanks to the patient work of the industrious inhabitants of Lusignana and the volunteers of Legambiente, which are restoring all the pieces collected. It can be visited upon reservation or during the village fair in early August.
Frignoli Botanical Garden and Forestry This structure, developed from a forest nursery placed at 900 metres of height, could very well be a Natural Park in its own right: hundreds of tree and plant species, not to mention the "erbi di campo" herbs used in the local cuisine, are harboured in environments recostructed on the basis of those typical of the National Park of the Appennino Tosco-Emiliano and of the Regional Park of the Apuan Alps. The forestry can be used by those interested in a stay with naturalistic or didactic purposes. Another feature of the place is the presence of an experimental breeding for the native Appennine trout.
Alessandro Malaspina documentation centre Next to the medioeval tower, in the Malaspina Palace, is housed an exhibition that explains with pictures and documents the feats of Alessandro Malaspina (1754-1810), a great lunigianese sailor, who completed a journey around the world and was author of many important scientific discoveries. The centre collects the family archives of the Malaspina and a library that gathers all the bibliography available worldwide on Alessandro's undertakings.

Discovering the trditional quality products The Pleasure of Drinking Famous wine from the times of the Roman colony of Luni produced from ancient vines. You can discover wines in cellars open to the public or in the best restaurants whilst going through the roads marked by the millenary presence of castles, abbeys, and villages set in an historical and inspiring landscape, cut through by clean fish-rich water ways and dominated by the white marble Apuane mountains and the green black currant heaths of the Appennines. You can find further information on the routes and the wine producers of the "wine road" calling the agricultural division of the province of Massa-Carrara, that works for and promotes La strada del vino dei colli di Candia and Lunigiana. In the valley of the Magra river the Consorzio Produttori Vino della Lunigiana puts together many small producers but also big producers who have been on the market for many years, that bottles famous wines, each of them with its own particular taste, wines that ideally accompany local traditional dishes.

Strada del Vino dei Colli di Candia e di Lunigiana It is a route that descends from the hills above Pontremoli towards Massa and Montignoso touching territories where you can find wines which have got different characteristics, but more or less all with a strong personality: the famous DOC wine "Candia dei Colli Apuani", the well known DOC wine "Colli di Luni" and the surprising variety of the IGT wines "Val di Magra".
The Candia, produced mainly with vermentino, albarola and malvasia vines can be sweet and goes well with desserts, Colonnata lard and soft cheese. The dry one goes well with soups and sea fisg starters, bavette with mushrooms, and veal in tuna sauce.
In the Candia area you can find a good real table wine. The Colli of Luni wines are very versatile. You can find good real wines produced with sangiovese, lanaiolo, pollera, ciliegiolo, vines, to be served with minestrone, grilled meat and semi hard cheeses.
The white wines produced with vermentino and trebbiano vines go well with seafood starters mesciua, dried cod cooked the vicentina way.
The famous vermentino wine, produced with 90% of that vine is ideal with any kind of fish. The Val di Magra wines have a history of a great variety of vines in the white, red and rose versions are ideal with the delicious foods of the valley of the river Magra.
The white wine are based on durella, albarola, trebbiano, vermentino vines, and go well with testaroli with pesto, vegetable pies and vegetable soups. The red wine produced with pollera, ciliegiolo, groppello and merlot vines exalt starters, lamb, roast chicken, various types local salami whilst the rosè wines go well with melanzane alla parmigiana stuffed pasta, semi-hard cheeses.
Through this journey you will find cellars, holiday farm operators, hotels and restaurants, it's a journey that goes through an uncomparable historical landscape with medieval villages, abbeys, castles and country houses.

The Pleasure of Good Food Tourists who want to spend some time discovering the outstanding food of Lunigiana of its farms or craftmen's shops where local goods are produced, of the shops that sell them, tou can contact for further details the: Consorzio agroalimentare "Lunigiana Produce".
They will tell you where to find testaroli, panigacci, focaccette, salami, honey, chestnut flour, oil, wines, beans, Zeri lamb, mushrooms, under wood fruit, pastas and last but not least for their quality, the precious Appennine mushrooms. The province of Massa Carrara has organized together with the Comunità Montana and the Tuscan region, the promotion of Lunigiana's typical products.

Enjoying Nature Natural Parks and trekking in Lunigiana Lunigiana also possesses a great treasure in nature, landscapes, and biodiversity. This valley is enclosed by there distinct mountain formations: the high sandstone crests of the Appennino Tosco-Emiliano, the steep and imposing limestone and marble formations of the Apuan Alps, and the first tract of the Ligurian Mountains. Through this valley enshrined among such diverse surroundings runs the river Magra, from its springs near the Cirone Pass up to half of its course, whose final destination the Thyrrenean Sea in Liguria. Magra's tributaries give us strong and limpid waters, beautiful cascades (like the "piscio" in Pracchiola or the waterfall on the Verde torrent near Farfarà) and deep canyons (such as the "Stretti" in Giaredo or the "Solco" in Equi Terme). This wonderful nature is nourished and protected by an articulated system of natural parks. The recently formed National Park of the Appennino Tosco-Emilianoincludes high sandstone crests and the alpine prairies, home of the golden eagle and point of transit between Tuscany and Liguria for the wolf of the Appennines. Here blossoms the Appennine Primrose, a variety protected at European level. In Logarghena and Camporaghena lovely meadows, previously used as pastures, have survived abandonment; they are punctuated by small lakes, peat bogs, karst holes, graced by countless orchids and, in springtime, become white with thousands of flowering narcissuses. Sassalbo is really the "Village in the Park": his inhabitants have spontaneously chosen to stay inside the Park, with their mountain village and the great chestnut wood run through by the imposing mule track that once united Luni with the Lombardy plain. The surroundings show many formations left by various geological evolutions and by the last glaciation, such as the impressive gypsum, cliff dating back to the triassic period who gave its name to Sassalbo, the Nuda great glacier circle, the peat bogs of Padule and Fosse (home to an important and protected variety of crayfish). If you reach Restì, in the Mommio valley, you will see the Marmitta dei Giganti, a great cylindric basin dug on the limestone terrain by a stream of water that ends in a beautiful waterfall. The lunigianese side of the Regional Park of the Apuan Alps enshrines wonderful landscapes and rare natural features. The valley of Vinca, surrounded by a crown of bright limestone crests, has a dolomitean aspect. The golden eagle nidifies in the high and steep faces of the Glacier Valley of the Solco di Equi and of the Pizzo d'Uccello. In the Valle del Lucido the environment has been shaped by water: thermal sulphureos springs and karst caves who have been inhabited since prehistoric times in Equi Terme, black water and salt water in Monzone. The Apuan Alps are a veritable paradise for all fans of Free-climbing and excursions, as well as for those interested in flowers: here countless rare and distinctive species blossom. Recently two Protected Natural Areas have been built around the river Magra, among Aulla, Terrarossa and Filattiera. The protected environment and uncontaminated waters make it an ideal habitat for the kingfisher, the heron and many other river birds. It is also appreciated by the fishermen, who can find areas reserved for fly fishing, not to mention the inhabitants and tourists who can enjoy summer baths. But Lunigiana cherishes great environmental variety and richness of landscapes all over its territory. Possibly the best way to experience this is by foot, with the slow tour suggested by Trekking Lunigiana: a great ring with 14 stages, that allows you to visit the rural Lunigiana, passing through dozens of rural centres, mule tracks, maestà, ancient bridges, centuries-old, chestnut groves, pastures and traditional cultivated terrains unfolding along the 250 kilometres of its course. Each of the 14 stages has a resting place in which to pass the night: many are located in small villages, where tou can visit the castles, the churches and the vaulted galleries typical of lunigianese country villages. In the vicinity you can also find small restaurants which offer local dishes and products.

The Snow, Mineral Waters, Spas In a publication as early as the 1950s, a chemist called Ceccarelli praised the beneficial qualities of the waters of the Magra, rich in many minerals, and recommended bathing in the river. On the other hand, the River Magra and its tributaries have always been considered to be a kind of giant open air swimming pool by the inhabitants of Lunigiana. At Aulla, water gushes from the Camilla spring on Mount Porro and has been channelled into the city since the construction of the railway when it was used to fuel the steam engines. Today, the waters flow from four fountains known since Antiquity to be beneficial for skin diseases. The inhabitants of Pracchiola, on the Via del Cirone, are proud of their spring, which spurts from the rock face of the Appennines, and which, once again, supplies the attributed the same laxative qualities as the more famous Tettuccio at Montecatini. Here, on August 17th 1817, Maria Luigia, Duchess of Parma, decided to sleep the night; in its present state of abandon, it inspires nothing but melancholy. The century-old avenue of lime trees leads to what is left of the plant which bottled water in the 19th century to send to Parma and La Spezia. The ruins of the 18th century lodge can just be discerned through the thick woodland undergrowth. At Equi Terme, the waters were known since Antique times and have been rationally exploited for at least a century: swimming-pools, mineral water cures with vaporised or warmed waters, strictly under medical supervision, are particularly recommended for bronchial disorders and those suffering from osteo-articulatory diseases. There is a three-star, recently restored hotel next door, the Hotel delle Terme.

The charms of this territory visiting the Municipalities Aulla At Aulla, climb up to the Brunella Fortress, built, it is said, by Giovanni delle Bande Nere, though more probably completed by the Centurione of Genoa. Its size is impressive and, in fact, it was taken only once, by Spanish troops in the mid-17th century. This was considered so great a military triumph that a special Te Deum of thanks was sung in Madrid. In the vicinity, the hilltop town of Bibola should not be missed; nor should Pallerone, with its remains of the old town, its cleverly restored church, full of mementoes, and its electromechanical crib, more than half a century old. Nor should the charming little town of Caprigliola be overlooked, standing, as it does, as if on guard over the Magra with its medieval bishop's tower, its Medicean walls and the nearby Sanctuary of the Madonna degli Angeli.
BagnoneEchoes of by-gone days, the bustle of shopkeepers, tailors, spice vendors and shoemakers who set up shop and built their home here, can still be felt as one passes through its gateway. The castle, built in the second half of the 14th century by the Malaspina, came to belong t the Noceti family and the 15th century chronicler Antonio Da Faye is buried in its chapel. Nearby, are the considerable remains of the Castle of Treschietto, perched above the ravine. Once in the Bagnone district, do not forget to visit Castiglione del Terziere, seat of the Florentine Captaincy, restored and brought lovingly back to life by Loris Jacopo Bononi, a fine example of enlightened interest in the past, projected into the future to the benefit of Lunigiana as a whole. You can go on from Bagnone to reach the peaks of the Appennines: after Treschietto, go on towards Jera, with its superb chestnut woods; on the way back, stop off at Vico and Corlaga and visit the pictoresque water-mills the excellent chestnuts from the valley are still ground. From Collesino, go on to Apella, home of the legendary Risorgimento hero Anacarsi Nardi who faced the firing squad alongside the Bandiera brothers.
Casola in Lunigiana Casola is very ancient in origin, so much so that its valleys were already inhabited in the Iron Age. In the 9th century, it belonged to the Bishops of Luni but, after 1306, (when a pact, witnessed by Dante, was made between the said Bishops and the Malaspina) it came to belong to the latter, the most powerful family in the Magra Valley. In 1496, the inhabitants of Casola sided with the Florentines and the town came under their rule. The road linking Val di Magra to Garfagnana passed through this area, and alongside it, the remains of the Hospital of Tea are now coming to light. The Parish Churches of Codiponte and Offiano are of note: the former has carved capitals and the latter has precious Romanesque apses which have been restored to us. Together with the nearby Parish Church of S. Lorenzo and the Sanctuary-Hermitage of Minucciano, the old parish churches of the Casola area provide a unique opportunity to experience fisthand the spirituality of the Medieval Age. The old town of Casola is well worth a visit itself, with its splendid, recently restored Territorial Museum which not only tells the story of the Casola Valley but of much of Lunigiana's history and culture as well.
Comano Comano and its castle was the wedding dowry of King Ugo to his wife Berta in 938. The Este family chose it as their spearhead when penetrating Lunigiana. There are echoes of Princess Matilde, of the bried dominion of Castruccio Castrocani and then, finally, of the Malaspina family's much longer rule. The castle and ruins of Groppo S. pietro testify to this past history. Nearby Lagastrello, immersed in Nature, offers splendid and relaxing landscapes. Not to be forgotten, is the monumental complex of the Abbey of Linari, dating from 1043. At campo-raghena, there are traces of the long tradition of stone-carving skills in this area: a whole series of richly carved portals, coast of arms and grotesques to terrify the Spirit and smiling angels to console it. Before leaving Comano, stop and visit the ancient Parish Church of Crespiano, already recorded in 1143.
Filattiera This was an important stopping place on the Roman road that led from Luni to Emilia. It was to become the capital of Byzantine Lunigiana and later came under the rule of the "flowered branch" Malaspina Family (their coat of arms is a thorn tree, flowered or bare according to the branch of the family). The first 12th century settlement in the old part of Filattiera is still preserved, with the Church of St. George, built under Castracani, and the watchtower, its development, over the following centuries, perfectly legible, with the Malaspina Castle and the old hospital dedicated to St. James. However the most famous monument is the Parish Church of Sorano, now completely restored, a splendid example of Romanesque architecture, a true treasure chest which conceals still earlier churches and was probably a place of Pre-Christian worship. The stele statues found inside it and the stone plaque, now in the Church of St. George, which records how a famous 8th century missionary, Leodegar, "broke the idols of pagans here and founded churches", would appear to corroborate this. The borough surrounding Filattiera is well worth a visit, especially the villages of Capria Valley, on the road to Parma, with their tower houses, splendid aristocratic palaces, once beloonging to the nobility of Pontremoli, the mighty Sigillina Stronghold, the interesting museum, illustrating the peasant life of Lusignana, the road that leads into the archaelogical site of Monte Castello, the natural beauties of Gigliana, Serravalle and the meadows of Logarghera.
Fivizzano This has so-often been called "the Florence of Lunigiana" that it has become a common saying. You will experience a Tuscan atmosphere if you go there, for Fivizzano chose alliance with Florence and was under Florentine captaincy right up to the end of Grand-ducal rule. You should walk around the ancient walls, built under Cosimo de' Medici in 1540, the best example of military fortified walls of their kind in Lunigiana. Visit the Palace of Arcade Labindo and his tomb and stop to see the elegant Baroque fountain in the square, built by Cosimo III in 1683. Outside the walls, you can visit the old town of Verrucola, and imposing manor house, built for Spinetta Malaspina the Great and now the residence of the sculptor Pietro Cascella. Fivizzano is a noble town of ancient culture: Jacopo da Fivizzano printed incunabula there and the mother of Lunigiana's great Pope, Niccolò V, was born there. Floklore comes to life with the pageant of the Disfida degli Arcieri di Terra e di Corte (Challenge of the Ground Archers and the Court Archers) and the Humanist tradition is preserved and continued in the 16th century Accademia degli Imperfetti. At Fivizzano, you can also visit the monumental complex of the Augustinian Monastery and, nearby, the Parish Church of San Paolo di Vendaso; then there is the old town of Soliera with the Sanctuary devoted to the Madonna dei Colli ("Madonna of the Hills"), splendid Gragnola, Vinca, high up in the Apuan Mountains with its inimitably fine bread, Ceserano, with the farm and vuneyards of Count Picedi-Benettini. No true Nature lover should miss a visit to the Botanical Gardens at Frignoli and the town of Sassalbo.
Fosdinovo This is the most photographed castle in Lunigiana and is well preserved and open to the public. It hosts concerts, exhibitions and cultural events and is the seat of the local trekking school. Not only is Dante said to have been a guest but there is also supposed to be a ghost who walks its rooms every now and again. Fosdinovo is a very old settlement that for centuries has dominated the Magra and Kuni plains. The atmosphere is one of bordelands: you can almost smell the sea without forgetting the mountains behind. Local cuisine is excellent and can be tried and tested in its many goods restaurants. In the area surrounding Fosdinovo can be found the splendid Villa di Caniparola, once a Malaspina property.
Licciana Nardi the Municipality of Licciana has castles and old town centres of extraordinary beauty: Terrarosa, the ancient "Rubra" of medieval routes, with its restored castle; Monti, still belonging to the last Malaspina; Bastia, famous because the beautiful Annetta Malaspina, a rival of Pompadour, lived there. The old town of Licciana, itself, is elegant, with its church as richly decorated as its castle is austere. The small town of Panicale deserves a visit with its small palace, once the property of the Medici in Lunigiana, then go on to Apela to see the house belonging to the Nardi family. Very picturesque, too, is the little town of Tavernelle with its old merchants' shops, their shop signs carved in stone, and the cobbled road, which rises up towards the Apennines. Don't forget then to visit Monti, with its thousand year-old Parish Church of Venelia and to call in at Pontebosio to see the castle. The Licciana Nardi Valley has some really beautiful views, especially around Monti and Apella, where the old tower is a reminder of the medieval settlement and where, in the old part of the town, the birthplace of the Risorgimental martyr Anacarsi Nardi is marked. Precious works of are to be found in the church at Licciana Nardi and at Varano.
MulazzoAltough it is true that Pontremoli is "the City of the Bokk" and of the Premio Bancarella, it is equally true that the most famous booksellers in Italy have their roots in the Municipality of Mulazzo: the Fogola, Lazzarelli, Bertoni, Maucci, Tarantola and Giovannacci families all originated in Parana and Montereggio. An absolute must is a visit to the church of the Madonna al Monte, with an incomparable view over Lunigiana and, on really clear days, over the sea. At Montereggio, visit the church of Saint Apollinaire, a fortified church, and have them tell you the story of Saint Fogolla, the bishop who was born here and died a martyr in China. At Mulazzo, we can find the remains of the Malaspina acqueduct, of a Byzantine tower, the mansions of marquises, one of which hosts the Study Centre dedicated to the navigator Alessandro Malaspina; down on the plateau is the ancient church of St. Martin. Don't leave Mulazzo without having paid and least a quick visit to Groppoli, that small corner of Genoa: the castle, villa and church were desugned by Matteo Vinzoni and commissioned ex-novo or rebuilt by the Brignole Sale of Genoa. Visit Castevoli, too, with its mighty Malaspina town centre, but don't forget Lusuolo and Campoli, where a stele statue stands guard outside the Oratory.
PodenzanaPodenzana is the capital of the panigaccio, a speciality that locals still make to the traditional recipe, cooking them in earthrnware pans or testelli, still crafted in the ancient way. Here one of the most famous sanctuaries of the valley is to be found; pilgrims climbed up to do penance, a heavy stone on their shoulders and covered a long stretch of the path on their knees. Tradition has it that the Madonna appeared inside a chestnut tree, still preserved in the back of the high altar. A unique castle, restored in the 1960s, is spectacularly positioned for fine views. Montedivalli, a hamlet of Podenzana, is little island of Ligurian territory and preserves a Romanesque treasure: the parish Church of St. Andrew.
PontremoliPontremoli is an elegant town, rich in history and ubrivalled for the splendour of its buildings, the nobility of its squares and the wealth of its churches, bursting with works of art. A visit to Pontremoli is like leafing through an art history book: you will discover the impressiveness of the Medieval castle, of the curtain that Castruccio ordered to be built between the two towers to ward off the warring Guelf and Ghibelline factions, (the Campanone bell-tower was one of the towers) of the bridges over the River Verde. You will admire the refined Baroque of Nostra Donna del Ponte (Our Lady of the Bridge) and the frescoed homes of the local nobility; the austere achitecture of the grandiose 15th century Church and Convent of the SS. Annunziata will charm you, as will the intarsi (wwodcarvings) of the Sacristy and the paintings by Cambiaso. Nor should you forget to visit the 18th century theatre., now restored to the population and, obviously, the Museum of the Stele Statues where the stone idols, masterpieces from the Prehistoric Age, still seem to keep their mysterious and vaguely disturbing watch over "the land of the moon" (Lunigiana). In the Pontremoli District, it is weel wothwhile going up the Verde Valley to see the Parish Church of Vignola and the villages of Guinadi and Upper Carvara, with its Lake Verde, full of fish, and impressive stone faces which were meant to keep evil spirits away. At Montelungo, you can discover the properties of the spring, dedicated to the Virtues since Antiquity it seems. At Succisa, there is the house where St. Zita was born and, in the Antena Valley, a series of mountain villages, immersed in their verdant surroundings, which will accompany you on towards the Cirone Pass.
TresanaStop off at Barbarasco in the Tresana District on the 14th of July and you will find yourself in the midst of a local fete to the honour of St. Quirico who, according to legend, was devoured by flies and here annually performs a simple miracle: on his Saint's Day, no flies ever enter the church. Having reached Giovagallo, high up on the rocky hill, you will see the ramains of the castle that once belonged to Moroello Malaspina and Alagia Fieschi. From Giovagallo to Tresana, follow in the footsteps of a marquis scoundrel who, in 1577, obtained permission from the Emperor Maximilian to mint coins. Lying at the foot of the castle, the Mint at Tresana was soon to become a hobted of forgery and Pope Clement VIII was to pour anathema and excommunication of the head of the culprit, Guglielmo Malaspina, who had cleverly minted dalse Papal coins. Go up again until you reach Villa and you will see just how a castle should be restored: credit must go to Amalia Princess of Bavaria, who had it restored not long ago. At Villa, look out for the remains of the old hospital, now restored, and for the Renaissance Church of St. Mary standing alongside a river, in the shade of a chestnut wood.
Villafranca LunigianaStart from Villafranca, from the ruins of the famous castle of Corrado l'Antico, from the shops of dealers in antiques in the old town, from the Ethnographic Museum, housed in the old 15th century Mills, where the soul of Lunigiana peasant culture is encapsulated. The large terracottas of the School of the Della Robbia, to be found in the Church St. Francis, are well worth a visit. Go on until you reach Filetto, with its surrounding woods where many stelae statues were found, for here was a wood sacred to pagan divinities. On the 25th of August, each year, a great fair is held to honour St. Genesio. In July and August the old Byzantine town centre is taken over by the Medieval Fair, bustling with artisans' workshops, all sorts of performances and historical pageant. Then go on up to Malgrate where you will find the highest and most elegant of Italy's Medieval towers. Here, you will find the spice shop of Antonio da Faye, the 15th century chronicler and the house of the Humanist Bonaventura Pistofilo and that of Silvestro Landini, one of the first followers of St. Ignatius. From Villafranca, it is easy to reach Virgoletta, one of the finest old towns of Lunigiana, built around a little hill, dominated by a Malaspina Castle, with a church fill of precious relics of saints, jealously housed in a monumental altar, sculpted in marble. from Fornoli, an old town that occupied a strategic position on a busy Medieval route, you can go down to the important ford of Chiesaccia, behind the River Magra and facing the picturesque view of Lusuolo.
ZeriThe name "Zeri" is Ligurian in origin: a collective noun that indicates a group of villages (Noce, Coloretta, Parigino, Rossano, Bergugliara) rather than any one single place. Nature is uncontaminated and there are still people here who lovingly cultivate the land and look after woods. The inhabitants of Zeri are an independent people, used to making their own living and proud of their traditions: they beat off the French in 1789, obstructed the Spanish in 1796 and made a decisive contribution to the Liberation of Italy. At Zeri, the word "holiday" means green open spaces, or snow and the pleasure of getting away from the noise of frenetic city life. Zeri is the ideal place fo those who love the silence of the mountains without having to give up all modern comforts. Here, you can rediscover a bygone rhythm of life and a countryside where prize sheep, found only locally, are bred and raised and where cattle freely graze. Add to this the rural architecture, the little alpien village of Formentara, the small marble maestà (carved reliefs of religious subjects), which fill the streets with saints, the fetes on the patron saints' days and its unique cuisine and you will realise that you have, indeed, found a little corner of Paradise.